Culture and Construction

Wednesday February 25

Today is devoted to Israel's cultural institutions and their growth, expansion and rebirth. I chose the option of the Israel Museum, which is undergoing a major renovation and expansion. From the hillside of the sculpture garden, I am ever mindful of the knowledge that at some point, some of our ancestors (in one way or another--whether by birth or by choice) had the same view of the Judean hills...some brought offerings on their pilgrimages to the Temple...while others returned home from the exile.

There is construction everywhere...beautiful new architectural marvels, as well as the traditional Israeli less-than-architectural- masterpieces. Still, it points to an optimistic spirit, despite the uncertainty of the current "matzav"--the current situation--as the conflict with " our cousins" is called.

I am struck by two groups of visitors: the first, a gathering of twenty elderly women of Bucharan descent, who have come to see the exhibit of Israel's 60th birthday; the second, a similar sized group of teenage girls/ young women, new inductees, all in their Israeli army fatigues, all with their rifles slung over their soldiers. And between these two groups, lies the history and the future of the Jewish state.

The exhibit moves me deeply. The actual documents--the Declaration of Independence of the State of Israel, the formal request of the newly formed Israeli government to the Jewish community of Vienna asking for the remains of Theodore Herzl to be flown home at last to Jerusalem (his final wish), the peace accord signed by Menachem Begin with Egypt--they are all on display.

My conversational hebrew has come back in full, and the citizens of Jerusalem seem beyond eager to converse with visitors, who are somehow family as well. They are no doubt craving company at a very lonely time.

Tonight we are guests at Cinamateque, Israel's equivalent of the Belcourt's vision, albeit in Green Hills 16 clothing. We are to see a couple of new Israeli films, to be prefaced and followed by remarks from the directors.

Tomorrow we all go for a day in Tel Aviv: My group will spend the day studying the Educational system there, and its innovative model for teaching a pluralistic understanding of Judaism. ( A window on the distance still to go in this regard: Yesterday, as we returned to our bus in Beersheva, a security guard stopped me to ask me where all the rabbis were; he was looking for forty old men with white beards !!!)

The day ends at the new port tourist area.